Sunday, June 20, 2021

Walk 393 -- Bosherston Lily Ponds to Stackpole Quay

 Ages: Colin was 79 years and 43 days. Rosemary was 76 years and 185 days. 
Weather: Drizzle which kept coming and going. 
Location: Bosherston Lily Ponds to Stackpole Quay. 
Distance: 3 miles. 
Total distance: 3978 miles. 
Terrain: A steep and difficult start over soft sand. Otherwise gently undulating grassy cliff paths. 
Tide: In. 
Rivers: None. 
Ferries: None. 
Piers: None. 
Kissing gates: Nos.958, 959 and 960. 
Pubs: None. 
‘Cadw’ properties: None. 
Ferris wheels: None. 
Diversions: None. 
How we got there and back: We were caravanning at Freshwater East. This morning we drove to Stackpole Quay and parked in the National Trust car park. The bus times were too awkward to use today, so we walked to Eight Arch Bridge, then alongside one of the lily ponds to the bench overlooking Broad Haven South beach. 
At the end we came to Stackpole Quay and drove back to our caravan at Freshwater East. 
 
We started today's Walk by sitting on the bench at the end of the lily ponds overlooking Broad Haven Beach where we finished the last Walk. We had just completed a lovely saunter from Stackpole Quay via Eight Arch Bridge, so we rested there and ate our lunch. The coast path almost immediately left the lily ponds, which we have very much enjoyed walking round over the past few days, and took us up an almost vertical slope of very soft sand. Every time we put a foot forward it slipped down again almost to where it had started — it was a real struggle to get up to the top of the cliffs. But it was well worth it for the views over Broad Haven Beach and the lily ponds. 
It was a relief to get on to a firm grassy path. We were both wearing our kags already, but when the drizzle intensified we struggled into our overtrousers. Then the rain practically stopped, of course! I took my overtrousers off pretty soon because I find them too hot and I'd rather have wet trouser legs.
We walked round several inlets and a huge sinkhole looking at the rocks. But when we got to Stackpole Head the wind and rain intensified. It was really quite nasty out there, so we cut across the 'neck' and missed it out.
 
We were surprised at the number of people out walking the cliff paths on this rainy day — not what we're used to. But we Brits have come to appreciate the natural world a lot more since Covid struck. Most of us have to holiday at home this year because foreign travel is so difficult with all the new rules and regulations which seem to change on a daily basis.
If you manage to get to your foreign resort for a holiday, you never know whether you'll be able to get home without having to spend over £1000 to isolate in a hotel for ten days. So all British resorts are crowded out this year.
 
As we descended to Barafundle Bay the rain eased off, and we felt nothing under the trees. Barafundle has been my favourite beach ever since I first discovered it back in the 1970s. I had really been looking forward to getting there on our Grand Coastal Trek, and I was mildly annoyed that it was raining on the very day we passed through. The trouble is that nowadays this remote and lovely beach, which is completely undeveloped and can only be reached by walking across the cliff tops, has been discovered by far too many other people. I was counting the discarded plastic bottles, and Colin saw at least half a dozen throwaway barbecues strewn on the sand. So sad. But the beach is still beautiful!
 
We walked across the sand, then climbed the steep steps out of it. At the top we sat down just to gaze at this amazing strip of sand to really appreciate it. (If only we were there on our own, not having to share it with about a hundred other people!)
 
Eventually we tore our selves away and walked a mile over the hill to Stackpole Quay which is a tiny rocky harbour built in the 19th century for the limeworks nearby.
 
That ended Walk no.393, we shall pick up Walk no.394 next time at the entrance to Stackpole Quay. It was twenty to three, so the Walk had taken us two hours ten minutes. We walked up to the car park and drove back our caravan at Freshwater East.

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