Ages: Colin was 69 years and 336 days. Rosemary was 67 years and 113 days.
Weather: Overcast, but remaining mostly dry.
Location: Port Logan to New England Bay.
Distance: 10 miles.Total distance: 2837 miles.
Terrain: A little
beach, a good track, quiet roads, then a not-so-quiet road.
Tide: Coming in.
Rivers: None.Ferries: None.
Piers: None.
Kissing gates: None.
Pubs: None.
‘Historic Scotland’ properties: None.
Ferris wheels: None.
Diversions: None.
How we got there and
back: We were staying in our caravan on
a site at New England Bay on the South Rhins. This morning we drove to Port Logan and
parked in the seafront car park where we finished the last Walk.
At the end we were at the
caravan. After our tea and biscuits,
Colin walked the two miles to Port Logan to collect the car while I cooked our
dinner.
We went down on to the beach from the car park where
we finished the last Walk, and strolled along the sands towards the
village. The tide was out, so this was
very pleasant.
We came to the local pub where we had enjoyed a
drink when we were in this area last September.
(It had featured in the CAMRA ‘Good Beer Guide’, and therefore was a
‘hit’ with Colin!)
But now it was
boarded up, and looked as if it was undergoing a major refurbishment. Whilst waiting for the bus yesterday, we had
asked a local bus passenger about it.
She told us, barely disguising the disgust in her voice, that it had
been bought by a “brash Yorkshireman”.
He had immediately started altering the building without gaining
planning permission. These alterations
included Roman columns across the front of the building!!
He tarmacked the car park opposite and put in
a number of seats. He said he was going
to start a fish’n’chip shop, an amusement arcade etc to turn Port Logan into a
‘real resort’! When the locals saw what
was happening they were up in arms, but he just called them “morons” and
carried on! When the local Council told
him to stop because he hadn’t got planning permission for any of these things,
he ignored them. They said he must
remove the Roman columns and restore the building to its original size and
shape. He replied that if he couldn’t do
what he wanted he would leave the building in its present uninhabitable
state. At present the situation is
stalemate, the pub is closed and an eyesore.
How sad!
We continued past a row of colourful fishermen’s
cottages behind a seawall. That and the
tiny harbour is more or less the sum total of Port Logan — by no means a ‘real
resort’, just a tiny Scottish fishing community. The sea wall was built in front of the
cottages in the 19th century to stop them being flooded.
On the sea wall was a single memorial seat – under
which someone had left two bunches of flowers in cellophane – and a modern
children’s playground. We walked to the
end of the harbour wall — there was a single boat in it, beached on the sand
because the tide was out.
Retracing our steps along the harbour wall, we then
left this tiny hamlet on a track leading uphill to the south. According to our map this track was supposed
to dogleg — but it didn’t, it just went straight up. This puzzled us momentarily, until we
realised what had happened.
By a gate we
came to a sign similar to one we had passed near Prestwick, only this one was
reminding us to shut the gate, whereas the Prestwick
one was about picking up litter:
Be ye man, be ye wumman
Be ye gawn, or be ye comin
Be ye early, be ye late
Be ye share tae shut the gate!
It was a good track, easy to walk. Part way up we came across a ‘Public
Footpath’ sign, but it hadn’t told us that at the beginning — we just had to
guess. Further up a ‘Public Footpath’
sign pointed us the wrong way — but we had our eyes on the map by now. And still further up another notice told us
we were still on the public footpath!
Like the last Walk, the signs around this part of the Rhins were put up
by somebody somewhat lacking in navigational skills. But it remained a good track all through, we had no
‘adventures’ like yesterday. We were
walking along parallel to the shore about a quarter of a mile inland. But because we were uphill we had good views
across to the sea.
We sat on a wall to
eat our pie/quiche.
We emerged on to the road at Clanyard where there is
the scant remains of a castle in a field.
Actually only part of one wall is left, and it is obviously a nuisance
to the farmer because he had ploughed very close to it on all sides. Why do we keep these useless little
ruins? We can’t keep them all, just because
they’re old. We got chatting to a local,
and joked about there not being much left.
He thought it was no good to anyone either. Blink, and you’ll miss it!
Previously we had pored over the map and tried to
plan how we should go on from this point. There was no more coastal path towards the
Mull of Galloway, and the roads radiated out from the centre like spokes in a
wheel. They mostly led to farms, few of
them actually reached the coast. Nearly
all were dead ends, and most of the tracks didn’t connect. So we decided to walk across the South Rhins
from this point to the village
of Drummore, then turn
north and walk along the east coast until we could exit the Rhins.
The road was very quiet and narrow with hardly any
traffic. A cloud came over and it began
to turn damp. We wondered whether to
stop and put on our overtrousers, but we didn’t and eventually the weather
improved. This dodgy weather (will it or
won’t it rain?) influenced our decision not to walk to Maryport before turning
north on the coast — other reasons being that I was tired and there was no
beach because the tide had come in — All
right! All right! I was making excuses, I plead guilty!
We climbed a hill to Kirkmaiden, walked
through a cemetery, then descended to Drummore on the coast.
We were disappointed, we thought it an ugly little
place! At least, that’s what I wrote in
my notes at the time.
Perhaps it was the
dull skies, perhaps we were feeling disenchanted with our Walk that day,
perhaps it was the scuppered boat near the harbour, or perhaps it was because
we couldn’t find a seat to rest ourselves and admire the view. Whatever, we weren’t very impressed.
We passed the local shop, advertising itself as “Scotland’s
southernmost store”. Yes, the Mull of
Galloway is the southernmost place in
Scotland, and it is only
three years since we were at Dunnet
Head, Scotland’s
northernmost point. We have walked that
distance along a very indented coast, via Cape Wrath,
Ardnamurchan Point and the Mull of Kintyre, in exactly three years. No wonder we felt tired!
We walked both sides of the harbour — no seats. There was a general air of untidiness about
the place, and the cold wind nearly cut us in half. We walked across a stony beach, and there
tucked away was a seat out of the wind.
Perfect! Except that it wasn’t —
it turned out we were sitting on someone’s front lawn!
We were enjoying our sarnies when a woman came out
of one of the cottages behind us with a cup and saucer in her hand, crossed the
road and informed us that the seat belonged to her and we were sitting in her
front garden! Well, it didn’t look like
it. It looked like a seat you would find
in any resort on the seafront, there for ‘Joe Public’ to use as he wished. We apologised, and offered to move on, but
she relaxed a little and said she didn’t mind us sitting there really — but
come to think of it, she didn’t offer us a cup of tea! It turned out that the cottage was her second
home, she actually lived not far from us — in Redmarley in Worcestershire! Her husband was already retired, and she
planned to retire soon and live permanently with him in the cottage. Despite her apparent friendliness we felt
awkward, so we ate up quickly and moved on.
About a hundred yards further on, we did come to a
public seat hidden away behind a bush and completely out of the wind. It would have been ideal, but it was a little
out of Drummore, and so well hidden we didn’t know it was there until we
practically fell over it. Ah well!
The tide was right in by then, and the beach was stony
or non-existent. So we had no choice but
to climb up to the road and walk along there.
We were disappointed because we had been looking forward to walking
along the beach, which would have been great if the tide had been out. The road was quite busy, and we didn’t enjoy
the experience much. But the views were
excellent, and the weather cheered up, so that helped.
I photographed some oystercatchers on a concrete
wall, using my zoom lens. It was only
when studying the picture at a later date that I discovered they were resting
by standing on one leg! I thought only
flamingos and storks did that.
Further on we had a bit of a fright because we
thought we saw a body in the undergrowth!
Had someone been killed by a hit’n’run driver, and no one knew they were
there? But it was only a pair of waders,
left with the ‘feet’ sticking out into the road. How on earth did it get there? Or was it deliberately put there as a joke?
Mostly it was a case of plodding on. We admired the beautiful wild flowers, when
we weren’t dodging traffic. A notice on
one beach told us that the removal of gravel was strictly prohibited — well I wasn’t thinking of filling my
rucksack with it!
At last we caught sight of our caravan site at New England Bay — why is it called that? I don’t
think you can see England
from there.
We thankfully walked in
and along to our caravan.
That ended Walk no.287, we shall pick up Walk no.288
next time from our caravan parked at New
England Bay. It was half past two (a very civilised time
to pack it in for the day), so the Walk had taken us six hours exactly. We had our tea and biscuits in the comfort of
our little home on wheels. An hour later
it started to rain, and the car was still parked in Port Logan! Colin got a bit wet walking the two miles
there to collect it, but now that we have an awning to our caravan we have a
lot more space for removing and hanging wet clothing. I heated up an ‘instant’ Indian meal while he
was gone, and when he got back we opened a bottle of wine to celebrate Easter.
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